James of all trades Handyman & electrician · Upper North Shore

Lighting & electrical

LED downlights, dimmers and USB power points: small electrical upgrades that pay their way.

Some of the best-value electrical jobs aren't renovations. They're small upgrades that make a house cheaper to run and nicer to live in. Here's what's worth doing, roughly what it saves, and what to watch for.

By James · Licensed electrician & local handyman, Upper North Shore · · 6 min read

NSW Electrical Contractor Licence 333002C
Illustration of an LED downlight lighting a room above a dimmer switch and a USB-C power point

Swap halogen downlights for LEDs

Plenty of houses around Hornsby and the Upper North Shore still have 50-watt halogen downlights from the 90s and 2000s. They run hot, the globes blow often, and they chew through power. A good LED downlight gives the same or better light for around 8 to 10 watts.

Here's a typical living area and kitchen with ten downlights on for about four hours a night:

Ten downlightsPower used a yearRunning cost a year*
50W halogenabout 730 kWhabout $255
9W LEDabout 130 kWhabout $46
Savingabout 600 kWhabout $210

*At around 35c per kWh. Your rate and hours will differ, but the gap is always big. And you stop buying replacement halogen globes.

Things to get right:

  • Pick the colour. Warm white (around 3000K) suits living areas and bedrooms. Neutral or cool white (4000K and up) suits kitchens, laundries and garages. Many fittings now have a switch on the back so you can choose on the day.
  • Use IC-rated fittings. Downlights rated IC-4 can be covered by ceiling insulation. That keeps the ceiling properly insulated, and it's safer than the old halogen cut-outs.
  • Replace the whole fitting, not just the globe. Old halogen transformers are a common cause of LED flicker and early failure. A complete LED fitting with its own driver is the reliable fix.

Dimmers that work with LEDs

The most common complaint I hear is "we put in LEDs and now the dimmer flickers, buzzes or won't go down low." That's nearly always an old dimmer that was made for halogen globes.

  • LEDs need a trailing-edge LED dimmer, and the downlights must be marked as dimmable.
  • Keep one brand and model of downlight on each dimmer. Mixing them is a common cause of flicker.
  • Good spots for a dimmer: the living room, dining, main bedroom, and the hallway for night-time trips to the kitchen.

Dimming stretches the savings further too, because a light at half brightness uses less power.

USB and USB-C power points

Swapping a standard double power point for one with built-in USB charging is a small job that gets used every day. It frees up both sockets and gets rid of the pile of plug-pack chargers.

  • Where they're most useful: beside the bed, the kitchen bench, the study desk, and wherever the family charges phones and tablets.
  • Go for USB-C with fast charging. Look for 20 watts or more on the USB-C port, so it keeps up with newer phones and tablets.
  • Australian-approved brands only. Look for the RCM tick. Cheap online USB outlets can overheat, and I won't install them.

Cheap extras worth doing on the same visit

If I'm already up in the ceiling or behind the switches, these are worth adding to the same visit:

  • Sensor lights for the driveway, side paths and back door. LED sensor lights cost very little to run and are a cheap security upgrade.
  • Extra power points where you're relying on extension leads or power boards. Daisy-chained power boards are a real fire risk.
  • Ceiling and exhaust fans. A ceiling fan costs a few cents an hour to run compared with air conditioning, and a working bathroom exhaust fan keeps mould away.
  • Safety switches and smoke alarms. Older switchboards often have one safety switch (RCD) or none. Hardwired, interconnected smoke alarms mean that if one goes off, they all do.

Grouping small jobs into one visit saves you money, because you're paying for one call-out instead of several.

Why it has to be a licensed electrician

In NSW, any work on fixed wiring, including swapping a power point, a light switch or a downlight fitting, has to be done by a licensed electrician. Doing it yourself is illegal, and it can cause problems with your home insurance if something goes wrong.

Getting a price

Text James a photo of the light fittings, switch or power point and roughly how many there are. You'll get a fixed price before any work starts. James works from Pymble to Cowan, including Turramurra, Wahroonga, Hornsby, Asquith, Mount Colah, Mount Kuring-gai and Berowra.

Common questions

Can I swap my halogen downlights for LEDs myself?

Swapping a plug-in globe is fine. But old 12-volt halogen downlights have a transformer that often makes LED globes flicker or fail early, and replacing the whole fitting is wiring work. In NSW that has to be done by a licensed electrician.

Will my existing dimmer work with LED downlights?

Usually not well. Most older dimmers were made for halogen globes. LEDs need a trailing-edge LED dimmer and downlights that are marked as dimmable.

Can I install a USB power point myself?

No. In NSW, replacing a power point is electrical wiring work and must be done by a licensed electrician.

How much can LED downlights save?

As a rough guide, ten 50-watt halogens used four hours a night cost about $255 a year to run at 35c per kWh. Ten 9-watt LEDs doing the same job cost about $46, a saving of about $210 a year.

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Flickering lights? Not enough power points?

Send James a photo.

A photo of the fitting or switch is plenty. James will come back with a fixed price and a time window. NSW Electrical Contractor Licence 333002C.

james@jamesofalltrades.com.au